From its altitude of 750 feet above the Tyrrhenian Sea, Voyagers can enjoy the unforgettable vista Terracina far below, the Pontine plain, Mount Circeo and looking far out to sea, as far as the Pontine islands and Ischia. Since the year 2000 the Temple is protected as a “Natural Monument” in the Lazio Region, and is host to the famous Anxur Lumina Sound and Light show. The temple is open all year long and offers a panoramic cafeteria located inside the archaeological area. The God Jupiter Jupiter (also called Jove) was the King of the Gods and the God of Sky and Thunder in Ancient Roman religion and mythology. Jupiter was the chief deity of Roman state religion throughout the Republican and Imperial eras, until Christianity became the dominant religion of the Empire. Jupiter is usually thought to have originated as a sky god. His identifying implement is the thunderbolt, and his primary sacred animal is the eagle, which held precedence over other birds and became one of the most common symbols of the Roman army. The two emblems were often combined to represent the god in the form of an eagle holding in its claws a thunderbolt, frequently seen on Greek and Roman coins. As the sky-god, he was a divine witness to oaths, the sacred trust on which justice and good government depend. His sacred tree was the oak. Visiting Terracina (Halfway between Rome and Naples, perfect for a weekend getaway) Terracina is snug against the Tyrrhenian Sea on the Riviera of Ulysses; so-called because legend has it that Odysseus sailed through on his travels. Nothing says "Odysseus was here" like Mount Circeo, rising out of the sea like the jagged profile of a reclining witch. The sorceress Circe is said to have lived there, plotting to turn Greek sailors into beasts. This uniquely-shaped rock formation is visible from other towns along the Riviera of Ulysses but Terracina is at just the right distance to create the perfect panorama of sea, sky, and mountain. The Mount Circeo is visible from most points in the city, perhaps none as overwhelming as when you're standing in the sea, looking North. Each evening, the mountain goes up in flames: no two sunsets are ever alike. Terracina's centro storico has ochre colored houses with green shutters on narrow cobblestone streets. There are the ruins of a mosaic-covered Capitolium and a massive rose colored square. The old quarter's nightspots attract live music fans, tourists, and locals alike. Don't forget that Terracina is a beach town, so fresh seafood is great here. Restaurants run the gamut from family-run trattorias to seafood shacks and small osterias with young Foodie chefs. Voyagers can enjoy risotto alla pescatora, calamari fritti and spicy boar sausage, while deep-fried filled Zeppole (doughnuts) are eaten hot in the evenings. Terracina hosts a number of sagre (festivals) including a strawberry festival in late Spring, a chestnut festival in the fall, and a muscatel grape festival in late Summer. Terracina's muscatel wine was the wine of Ulysses and still claim to be sweetest in the region. As for music, there is traditional folk music, Italian reggae, and Italian rap. The Anxur Festival draws the area's best musical acts. --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please tell your friends to visit our blog. Grazie!
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In Northern Italy, if you want to experience the rustic charm, fresh air and home grown richness of Italian food, you find an agriturismo to stay in. We stayed in two in Tuscany--one which was family owned and run and who grew and produced their own wine and olive oil. The other was a more bastadized, corporate owned affair, caharging extra for vineyard tours and tastings, with an over priced little restaurant on site and overpriced low quality "tourist wine". There are still others who are much more authentic--and where you can participate in taking care of animals, tending crops or making cheese, pasta and such. When traveling in Southern Italy the equivalent is staying in a masseria. Most masserie are very old... built between the 1500-1600s when Spain ruled the South. A masseria is a rather large farm complex to house not only the landowners, but also the peasants who tended the crops and farm animals. The complex usually included several other specialty buildings to house animals, to store crops, to make wine or cheese, etc. Some masseria developed into essentially small villages surrounded and protected high walls with a central courtyard surrounded by all the other structures. Many of the masserie today have been renovated and turned into vacation rentals and are mostly found in Puglia, in eastern Campania, on the plateau--or Murgia--of Basilicata, in Calabria, and in Sicily, Abruzzo and Molise. A masseria gives Voyagers a vacation that combines nature, local culture and home-grown (or Slow Food) cuisine with all the creature comforts of a world class vacation rental. You'll find modern plumbing, air conditioning (although often not as cool as we Americans would like it) and internet (slow or limited wireless connections due to thick walls), and satellite TV (often limited on station offerings). Some of the overly developed (in my opinion) masseria even offer spa treatments, golf courses and other offerings that have little to do with saturating yourself in local flavor or customs. I'd avoid these "resort" types and search for facilities that offer a more genuine Southern Italian experience. If you find a family run masseria you will find people go out of their way to make your stay a comfortable, memorable one. That was out experience when we stayed in a similar place, a small masseria of Trulli (pointed stone houses). Southern Italians are simply more hospitable than up in the North. There, I've said it. When staying at a masseria, you will get the feel of a farm along with a definite level of comfort found on a country estate. I think this is a great way for Southern Italians (if they are the ones who developed and run the properties) to preserve and reuse these historic structures, along with preserving this period of history in Southern Italy. If you decide to book a stay in a masseria, you will most likely be welcomed like family members, sample their own olive oil and wine and even cheese made on these farms (beware of Ricotta Forte!). You will also learn about the local culture and history--of Puglia, Basilicata or Campania. Owners will often join guests for home-cooked dinners using products from the farms... many types of pasta with vegetables, parmigiana di melanzana, seafood (the sea is all around in the South), pizza made in outdoor wood ovens, roasted vegetables, insalata caprese, polpette (meatballs) or beefsteak, home made breads (they use salt in Southern bread, unlike the Tuscan breads), thick jam-like honey, and to drink... good Southern varieties of red wine (Primativo is out favorite!). I strongly suggest looking for an organic masseria that uses no chemicals to grow their olive trees, vines, cherries, almonds, and vegetables. You will not believe how simply food can taste so damned wonderful. Imagine having a real Italian family meal—excellent, simple fare pared with a great local wine and great, hand-waving conversation. You will never have experiences like these staying in hotels. Some masseria offer classes in cheese making, pasta making, cooking or show you how olive oil is made. Visit in the fall and help with the harvest or grapes, almonds or olives. Some of the largest and oldest olive trees grow in the South... I took a photo of Lucas standing with a 2000 year old specimen! There are many masserie throughout the region and accommodation ranges from simple apartments to luxury suites and even trulli (circular stone huts), and most are in peaceful settings in the countryside surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. You usually need a car (rent in Bari or Naples) to access them and some can be difficult to find but it’s worth it for such unique accommodation and the opportunity to experience the warm hospitality of Southern Italians. If you want to stay in an organic masseria, use those words on Google... "organic masseria" and see what you come up with. The cost for a stay in a masseria stay might run from $60 to over $200 a night per person including breakfast.
--Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post and found it useful, please share out site with your friends. Grazie. "Unlike Americans, we Italians do not believe in lines. The unspoken rule is whoever is the most clever or most aggressive and gets to the front first, wins. What really matters is who gets there first, so you will find that Nonne, ladies, mothers with children, even children by themselves or priests will cut you without a thought. We do not see this as cutting. We just were smarter than the next person and got there first. Most Americans have very loud mouths but in the case of waiting on lines are really shy and timid. No wonder why your country keeps falling behind..."
Bougainvillea in the world of botany is described as a "genus of thorny ornamental vines, bushes, and trees with flower-like spring leaves near its flowers". But in Italy they simply describe the feeling, the romance of the country--by their loveliness, their sheer abundance and cascading lusciousness. They are native to Brazil and Peru, which is why they do so well in the near tropical climate of Italy. Their spiky, thorny vines can grow up to 40 feet tall, rambling up the front of many historic and romatic structures all throughout Italy. They are evergreen where rainfall occurs all year, or drop their leaves in areas with a dry season. The source of the stunning colors is not actually from the flowers of the plant. Each cluster of three tiny white flowers is surrounded by three or six colored leafy bracts--the source of the colors. They can be pink, magenta, purple, red, orange, white, or yellow. Enjoy this selection of amazing climbers... --Jerry Finzi
If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your gardening friends... ciao! The Hoboken Italian Festival, the premier Italian-American festival in the New Jersey tri-state area, is nearly 85 years old, and is derived from the 600 year old sagre (festival) of the Madonna Dei Martiri held each year in Molfetta (Puglia), Italy. Many Italian immigrants--like my father Saverio (Sal) Finzi with his mother, father, brother and sister--came from Molfetta to Hoboken in hopes of building their new American life. This festival has merged into a celebration of Hoboken, the religious Sagre, or feast day, and to honor Italian families who came from Molfetta. The festival occurs yearly, the weekend after Labor Day, for 4 days at Sinatra Park, on the historic waterfront of Hoboken, NJ. The highlight of the feast, beyond the fabulous views of the Manhattan skyline and the wide variety of foods and entertainment, is the day long procession through the streets of Hoboken, including a painstaking reenactment of the "Blessing of the Fleet" in the Hudson River, all culminating with a huge fireworks extravaganza in the evening. Sinatra Park, named after Frank Sinatra (who grew up in Hoboken and went to school with my Mother, Marie Vetri), is also where the film On The Waterfront was filmed in 1954. There is an abundance of food and music for all to enjoy. The tradition of the Madonna Dei Martiri to the year 1399, when the King of Naples, Ladislao di Durazzo, commanded that the Sagre and the Religious celebration be combined to celebrate the “Miracle” and blessings of the Madonna. This celebration is traditionally held on September 8, which is the Universal Feast of the Nativity of Mary. The actual “Miracle” of the Madonna in 1188.... Molfetta, situated as a port town on the Adriatic Sea, has historically been a maritime community. In 1188 a boatload of Crusaders returning from the Holy Land found the Icon of the Madonna floating on the water. They brought it to the Hospice in Molfetta which was constructed in 1162 on the orders of the Norman King, William II. The Crusaders would return to Molfetta, many of whom were wounded and dying. It is for this reason that Molfetta had built the Hospice. Those who were returned to health went on their way, while some died in Molfetta as Martyrs of the Faith. Everyone prayed to the Madonna of Martyrs who was symbolized as a Mother and Child with Angels, in a Byzantine style Icon. The Madonna in 1840 became the town’s patron along side San Corrado. Especially devoted were the fisherman who asked for her protection. Annually, the Molfettese people, where ever they are in the world, take time to celebrate this Miracle. Traditionally, there is Novena with a Mass and procession through the streets. At some point the Icon (statue) is placed on the fishing boats for veneration. A plenary indulgence is granted by the Pope to anyone who attends the Mass of the Madonna Dei Martiri and the Mass the Sunday following Easter. If you go: Hoboken Italian Festival honoring the Madonna dei Martiri Festival Dates for 2015: September 10th - 13th The Procession is on Saturday, Sept. 12th. --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends... grazie! Puglia had a real effect on us. For me personally, it completed the picture of who my father was. He was born in Molfetta and had a simple, joyful way about him--the same qualities I found in most people I met in Puglia. When we stayed in Trullo Gallo Rosso near Alberobello, our host Hugo had some prints of paintings hanging on his wall that illustrates the vitality, sense of community, love of food and wine and wonderful colors of Puglia... the artist was Vincenzo Milazzo. Milazzo captures the everyday life of Puglia in the same way that Grandma Moses captured life in rural America. His characters are depicted doing everyday things--baking bread, having a meal or working in the field. His style is similar to Moses in that the rules of perspective and proportion are pretty much broken, but that's the charm of Primitive Art... it's childlike in its simplicity and colors. In Italian, this style is called L'Arte Naïf, or Naïve Art. The really unique thing is how Milazzo creates his art... he painstakingly paints in reverse on glass. That is, he holds the glass facing him as he reaches around the back to apply his paints to the back side of the glass. The subjects in his paintings are always full of life--you almost feel that you know them... an uncle here, a cousin there, perhaps a neighbor. Symbolism is important in his works, too. Take his lanterns. There are almost always kerosene lanterns in his paintings. And then there's the animals... dogs, cats, birds... even a turtle. Of course, there are trulli--those pointy conical houses that Milazzo's part of Puglia is famous for. He represents their whitewashed fairy qualities perfectly. His paintings seem to show a past life, but from what I've seen of life in his Valle d'Itria, he is also capturing the current lifestyle as well. For me, his work speaks of gusto--in the true Italian meaning of the word--to taste life. That's what the Pugliese do every day with their food, their music, The Cheese, The Pasta, The Grape and their great Primativo wines, their love of The Olive and their 2000 year old olive trees, and their smiles. I've never found such warm and genuine smiles as I did in Puglia... something that is also found on the people's faces captured on glass by Milazzo. His paintings are full of life and love of The Life... La Vita Pugliese. Vincenzo Milazzo's Facebook Page... --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends... Ciao! All images used in this review are copyrighted by Vincent Milazzo.
My trip to Italy taught me one thing.... Italy is a country full of caves, grottoes and caverns of all types. Its geology is volcanic and there are many areas that have a geological structure known as Karst which provides the perfect conditions for caves to form. There are people still living in caves, such as the city of Matera, and people have lived in caves in Italy for tens of thousands of years. There are some caves too fragile or dangerous for the average tourist to enter, other caves that have offered important scientific discoveries, but there are many other "show caves" that welcome tourists all over Italy. I thought I would profile some of them here... Grotte di Frasassi, Marche Within the Frasassi Gorge in Genga, Italy, in the province of Ancona, Marche are a series of nearly 12 miles of caves. The largest cave, Grotte di Frasassi was discovered in 1971, with over a half mile of its caverns and tunnels is open to the public for tours that last seventy minutes. The most interesting stalactite and stalagmite formations have names just as compelling... Niagara Falls, Roman Giant’s Head, Candlesticks and the Organ Pipes. The vast Cave of the Great Wind, at 747 feet from floor to ceiling is one of the biggest caves in Europe. It's large enough to put a large cathedral inside... including its spires. You can visit casually or make reservations for more extensive "adventure" spelunking tours during which you enter deeper into the cave system wearing safety gear. The caves are located in the Frasassi Gorge, one of the most beautiful in Italy. In the area are castles and fortresses, so a minimum two day visit to the area is well worth the time. Tucked under the walls of the gorge is the interesting Sanctuary of Santa Maria infra Saxa--reminiscent of how the Pueblo built their dwellings under cliff overhangs. Grotta del Vento, Tuscany At the bottom of the Trimpello Channel, not far from the village of Fornovolasco is the entrance to Grotta del Vento... Cave of the Wind. In this part of Tuscany, the geological features are stunning... the Mount Pania Secca dominates this karst region deep abysses, bizarre monoliths and dark crevices can be seen. From the 17th century to the end of the 19th century, all that was known about the cave was the very cold air escaping it's mouth, which the locals directed into a cold storage structure they used to keep their food fresh. The cave was actually discovered in 1898 by several teens who--after a 4 year old girl entered the narrow windy opening, and returned--explored for themselves by widening the the narrow opening. It's said that they got scared themselves and ran out only 20 minutes later fearing monsters or bears or devils. In the summer visitors are typically shocked by the intensity of the wind coming from deep inside the mountain as they enter. As soon as the guides closes the door behind them the wind seems to stop. The secret to the wind is that there are really two cave openings: the lower one is the current entrance for tourists and is at 642 metres above sea level, the higher one is located at a height of 1400 metres, on the opposite side of the mountain. Hot air is drawn in through one entrance and runs through the cave toward the other opening... the air cools down and maintains a continuous circulation. Nature's air conditioning system! Besides a great sampling of stalactites and stalagmites there is even a waterfall and vertical shafts. They offer 1, 2 and 3 hour explorations with up to 180 feet in depth and over 1000 steps to climb. Grotte di Castelcivita, Campania The Castelcivita Caves are an amazing karst cave system in the municipality of Castelcivita, in the province of Salerno, Campania. The caves are in the National Park of Cilento and Vallo di Diano with 1,200 meters of passages open to tourists out of 5,000 meters total length. Castelcivita contains one of the most extensive and showy cave complexes in southern Italy. The local name for the site is the Spartacus Caves, named after a legend that the famed Roman Gladiator slave used the caves as a shelter. You can chose between a tourist tour (about one hour) or a longer caving experience lasting several hours. Visitors wear caving helmets with attached spotlights, which only enhance the spelunking adventure. Your visit can be better if you bring along your own high powered flashlight, as parts of the cave are very dark, illuminated only by the guide's light. Castelcivita makes a great side trip if you are visiting the Amalfi Coast, the archaeological site of Paestum or the beautiful port town of Agripoli... about 20 miles west from the seaside site. It's a very reachable destination in the mountains of Campania. Grotte di Pertosa-Auletta, Campania The Caves of Pertosa-Auletta, on the other side of the Alburno Mountains from Castelcivita Caves, is only a 40 minute drive from Salerno and once again, a perfect side trip from Amalfi or Paestum. This is the only cave system in which you can traverse an underground river by boat. The Negro river is fed by a spring from deep under the mountains, and offers a magical exploration of the caves by boat, the silence broken only by waterfalls deep inside the cavern. The cave tour is about a mile and a half long under the Monte Alburni, along which you will see stalactites and stalagmites, ribbon and "cave bacon" formations in varied colorations. This might be your only chance to boat across an underground lake! One drawback is the management doesn't allow photos to be taken, but offers a for-pay photo op area only. Personally, I think this is a sham--forcing people to pay for cheesy photos taken by their staff in one particular location. This is also an effort to coerce patrons into buying their postcards of the caves. It's a unique experience to see an underground river and lake (I saw one like this years ago in the States) but photos should be allowed! My advice... silence the beeps or clicks on your smartphones or cameras and shoot some discreet pics when the guides aren't looking. Castellana di Grotte, Puglia (Read my post of our visit to this cave here...) Located at the entrance of the Itria Valley in Puglia, a few kilometers from Alberobello (famed for it's pointed trulli houses), the beach town of Polignano a Mare and not far from Bari, the Grotte di Castellana began to form about 90 million years ago. The beauty of the Caves of Castellana have attracted over 15 million visitors. As you drive up to the site the touristy feel smacks you in the face, but rest assured, a visit underground is well worth it. The caves go on for a distance of 3 km, and a unique guided tour of the caves--one hall itself being over 60 meters tall--provides an amazing scenario made of stalactites, stalagmites, concretions, incredible shapes, fossils, canyons and caves with fantastic names... all to the delight of child and adult alike. Grotta Gigante, Friuli Venezia Guilia If you are traveling to Venice and then to Trieste, you might consider a side trip to Grotta Gigante near Italy's eastern border with Slovenia (just outside of Trieste). It is one the most interesting caves in the Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, where tourism, environment and science work well together. The main underground chamber of the Grotta Gigante is... well... gigantic! Until recently, it held Guinness Book of Records as the world's largest show cave. Its central cavern 351 ft high, 213 ft wide and 430 ft long. The many, many, many (no exaggeration) steps take you down to the main chamber, with a guided tour lasting around 1 hour. There is an excellent museum where you can see prehistoric relics and bones of ancient creatures and a small but excellent cafe. Occasionally there are wine tastings and happy hour in the cave with aperitifs and other events. Grotta dell'Addaura, Palermo, Sicily When I visited the cave city of Matera in Basilicata I learned how people have lived in caves in the Boot for tens of thousands of years... Grotta dell'Addaura proves this. It is an important site containing prehistoric art located on the northeast side of Mount Pellegrino on the outskirts of Palermo, in Sicily. The site is a network of three natural grottoes: Addaura Cave I, Addaura Cave II, and Grotta Niscemi. The site's importance is based upon its spectacular rock engravings the earliest of which date around 11,000 BC. The rock carvings depict an apparent ritualistic sacrifice or punishment, featuring more than a dozen human figures in acrobatic or dance. The wonderful thing about these carvings is how the seem as elegant and as sophisticated as the work of Pablo Picasso in both line and movement. The discovery of the prehistoric artwork is itself an interesting tale... It was after the 1943 Allied invasion of Sicily that the Allies decided to use the grottoes for storing munitions and explosives. An accidental explosion of the arsenal blew apart the main grotto walls while bringing to light the ancient graffiti. Sadly, since 1997, the Addaura caves are no longer open to the public. Visitors to Palermo can still see artifacts from the cave at the Regional Archaeological Museum. Stone tools and other artifacts recovered from the cave, including some items of its art, as well as shards of ancient pottery are on display. Toirano Caves, Liguria In 1950, some spelunking enthusiasts from Toirano discovered a series of internal amphitheaters following a 450-meter path, and notable for the richness and variety of their natural concretions, unusual stalactites and crystal formations. For millenniums, the cave bear (Ursus spelaeus) found refuge in the Toirano Cave, using it to hibernate. The bears' presence is evident by a large number of bone remains, ground paw prints, and claw marks on the walls. There is also evidence prehistoric human presence, dated to 12,000-12,500 years ago. There are foot, hand and knee prints and, in the “mysteries amphitheater”, numerous small balls of clay stuck to the wall on which they were thrown, likely as a ritual. These are clues of Upper Paleolithic human presence. These people were local hunter-gatherers using this cave for ritual purposes rather than shelter. There have also been tools from Neanderthals dating over 80,000 years old. Guided tours last 70 minutes and cover a route almost 1-1/2 kilometers long. Not suited for handicapped individuals. Grotta di Pastena, Lazio Grotta di Pastena in Lazio is an impressive river cave with huge passages and makes a great side trip from Rome. The tour shows two different parts of the cave, a water-filled section 200 meters long and a dry area, 900 meters long. It's best to visit the cave not in the dry summer, but in rainy times of the year when you will see the cave's best part... a river flows into this cave. The first huge passage takes you through a narrow passage to the active river cave. During winter rains this tour is dramatic. In the drier part of the cave, the sights are overwhelming, with numerous huge and glittering stalagmites and stalactites, organs and curtains of extraordinary size and beauty. There you have it... some options for visiting the caves of Italy. If you go, remember that there are usually very cool and humid conditions in caves. Wear good walking shoes... I'd recommend non-slip boating shoes over sneakers. Bring a hiking stick along to help deal with the uneven paths underfoot. As for the guides, there are good ones and bad ones. Just try and enjoy the beauty and mystery of what you are seeing with your own eyes and it will be worth it. Happy spelunking!
--Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends... ciao! Many travelers have heard of Lake Como in Piedmont region... and many go there, or to Lake Maggiore--in droves. But how about a smaller, more intimate, just as beautiful destination in Italy's lake region? Instead of visiting Lake Como, you can go to a lake that even many Italians haven't heard of: Lake Orta. Lake Orta, is one of the smaller (7 miles long) and less known of Italy's Alpine lakes. Orta seems nowadays to have become secret and secluded, but at the same time holds enough amenities and entertainment for any visitor. Orta is a mystical, quieter setting... you can imagine fairies and princesses. It's a watery world of church bells, pine trees, mountain slopes, cliffs and snow capped peaks. Then there is the island of San Giulio--floating in the lake like a mystical kingdom with legends of dragons in its wake. There are water ferries that take you to the island where you can visit its Basilica, the Benedictine Monastery or simply wander it's quaint, picturesque streets. The adjacent town of Orta San Giulio--sitting on a peninsula with water on three sides--would be a perfect hub for visiting the lake. Stone archways, waterfront strolls, lanterns lighting the evenings... make it a fine romantic getaway. There is even a great market every Wednesday in the Piazza. Events at Lake Orta include the annual Festival of Ancient Music, an international poetry festival each autumn, and the town of Omegna puts on a magnificent fireworks display every August. For the kids there are water parks and bob-sled runs, and of course there is the lake... swimming, skiing, fishing or simply sailing or pleasure cruising. Lake Maggiore is nearby and can be included as a day trip from Orta. There is a cable car in the nearby town of Stresa on Lake Maggiore that runs to the top of Mottarone, a mountain with amazing views of the Alpine lake district. And in the lake nearby Stresa is Isola Bella, an aptly named island with one of the most stunning palazzo and gardens in all of Italy. In the summer the lake is alive with watersports, but you will also find a workaday life here. Much more real than highly trafficked tourist centers. Plan a visit, enjoy the lake and the views and send us a post card! --Jerry Finzi
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John Keahey is a journalist turned travel writer who lives in Salt Lake City, Utah. Some years ago on a visit to Italy he became enamored with Italian culture: its history and art. His falling for Italy in such a big way is understandable. He joins the legions of writers since the seventeenth century who have written about their Italian journeys. Besides the book under review, he has also written Seeking Sicily, Venice Against the Sea, and A Sweet and Glorious Land: Revisiting the Ionia Sea, which I reviewed in this column when it appeared in 2000. In the latter book Keahey follows in the footsteps of George Gissing’s 1897 classic, By the Ionian Sea: Notes of a Ramble in Southern Italy. Keahey’s Hidden Tuscany is not the conventional travel book listing those obligatory monuments and villages to visit. Nor is he interested in pointing his readers to new and undiscovered restaurants, thus rendering them both popular and avoidable. There are enough Rick Steves in the world of travel writing, and Keahey does not intend to compete with the travel industry. Rather, in Hidden Tuscany he writes an introspective and interesting account of his travels through Tuscany’s smaller, lesser known villages. (Click to read more...) Buy Hidden Tuscany on Amazon We've all done papier maché in grade school. Take some newspaper, add some flour and glue and smooth it all out over a balloon and we made masks. A fun kid craft, right? But how many of you know that in some parts of the world papier maché is considered a fine art? And some of the best of this art is created in Puglia, in Southern Italy... Some Historic Notes on Paper... Mache, that is... The roots of papier maché techniques are in both the Middle and Far East. In French, papier maché literally translates as chewed paper. Paper was invented in China in the second century AD, and papier maché was developed as a way to re-use the new material which at the time was very rare and costly. Papier maché it can be very strong but also very lightweight. With strengthening layers of varnish, it was used to make soldiers' helmets and lacquered boxes... and even furniture. With the advent of trade with the Orient, Papier Mache spread from Samarkand and Morocco until about 900 AD it spread to Spain, Germany, France and Italy. The French craftsmen made cups and snuff boxes from it, with serving platters, pots, vases and furniture being made in other countries. A very strong board could be produced by baking layered sheets or shredded paper. For even stronger products, papier maché was mixed with linseed oil before being baked.In the 17th century, successful trade between the Republic of Venice and merchants from the Salento peninsula in Puglia spurred the development of papier maché techniques in the beautiful baroque town of Lecce. The high art of Cartapesta was born... Cartepesta as High Art The construction of many new churches and monuments, Lecce developed a demand for religious statues, but marble for statues is only available in the northern part of Italy--not in the South. Statues needed to be created quickly and needed to be built from a lightweight material so they could easily be carried in a festival procession, or Sagra. The Lecce craftsmen didn't possess any valuable materials, but with the help of straw, rags, plaster and a few tools, developed their craft using Cartapesta. As it turns out, Cartapesta when finished can be made to look exactly like a marble statue. Cresche scenes of the birth of Christ also became popular. Oddly enough, many of the best craftsmen were also barbers, perhaps because they already had some of the tools needed for the craft. Today the production of Cartapesta is concentrated around Lecce. Its craftsman produce statues (many life sized) of holy subjects with particular attention paid to their flowing garments. The studio shelves are also full of peasants in charming village scenes and represent various professions like shepherds, cheese-makers, bakers and farmers. Creche scenes of the birth of Christ and angels are also popular. Puppets and marionettes are also produced using Cartapesta. Hands, feet and heads are often made from clay and married to the metal and straw armatures used in creating the Cartapesta figurines. Younger artists are producing more and more modern art with Cartapesta, some of it being very avant-garde. The best artisans even make their own paper using traditional methods which is then used on their creations. Traditionally Cartapesta is pulp paper macerated in a solution of water and flour glue, tamped into a mold and boiled. The mass is then pressed to remove excess water and mixed with a solution of animal glue, pasta starch and resin. The resulting compound is applied onto a roughly shaped figure made from a wooden armature... the shape made by wrapping straw around the armature with thin wire. Then the work is left to slowly dry outdoors or in heated rooms and then hot irons tools are used to mark the folds and create the expressive details. Once coated with substances to protect it from moisture the model is ready for painting, which adds the real magic to some of these pieces. Many Cartapesta masterpieces are displayed in numerous churches of Puglia and all around the world. For example, the Church of Santa Chiara in Lecce is remarkable for the Cartapesta decorations of its ceiling. As one wanders through the streets of Lecce it’s common to come across several Cartapesta workshops showing their ready to sell statues and puppets or working on upcoming pieces of art. It’s also possible to take a Cartapesta class in several artisan studios and learn the complex process of creating your own masterpieces. A few minutes’ walk from Piazza Sant’Oronzo in Lecce, the Castle of Charles V is home to the Cartapesta Museum (Museo della Cartapesta). The museum displays an exhibition of the papier-mâché handicrafts along with a history of the most famous Cartapesta artists. If you want to see an amazing display of Cartapesta artwork, you can visit the town of Massafra in Taranto where every January begins their Carnevale di Massafra, with giant papier-mâché masks and structures being paraded through town on Thursdays and Sundays until the beginning of Lent. So, the next time you get out the glue, flour and old newspapers, think creative... think like Michelangelo... think Cartapesta!
--Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please share it far and wide... thanks for stopping by Grand Voyage Italy! Ciao! From a story in Panaram Italia: UNESCO recently declared that the Neapolitan dialect should be considered a language on its own. Spoken across Italy, Neapolitan is most dominant in Lazio, Abruzzo and Molise, Puglia and Calabria. Its origins go as far back as the time of Pompei. It then thrived under Federico II up until the reign of the Aragonesi. Under the Spanish domination, it used to be the State’s official administrative language. Neapolitan experienced many changes and influences throughout its evolution, but it always remained close to its original roots. That’s up until the Savoia’s reign. With the arrival of Garibaldi and the end of the Regno delle due Sicilie, Neapolitan was officially substituted with Italian, even though French used to be the administrative language of Piemonte in the early 1800s. Parliament had even suggested officially abolishing the Neapolitan dialect, which was considered to be prevalently spoken by second-class citizens. Throughout time, the Neapolitan language has experienced many variations, which purists would define as “vulgar influences,” yet it inspired many great poets and writers. According to historians and linguists, the Neapolitan dialect can easily be considered Italy’s second official language, thanks in part to popular songs that have contributed to spreading its influence across the world. No other dialect is as popular and yet, UNESCO has declared Neapolitan as a language to be preserved and protected. According to the international body, it is an easy shortcut to classify Neapolitan as a dialect. This declaration gives pride to all of those that express themselves using this colourful language, not only in Italy, but all around the world. Here's my take on it. Everywhere in Italy--North or South, Sicily, and Sardinia--there are dialects. Often the dialects change and evolve into sub-dialects from village to village within a single region. Is the Neapolitan dialect a separate and distinct language? I don't think so. He's my reasoning... My Dad spoke Molfetese dialect and my Mother spoke Neapolitan--her family was from Naples. She could understand him, he could understand her. Most people who speak dialect also speak Italian, but of course, they cherish and speak their own dialect as well. I applaud that attitude. But they are all speaking various forms of Italian that evolved and morphed differently in the various regions in Italy. Once you've been to Italy you can understand why... the amazingly rugged landscape itself must have made it very difficult to go from one region to another, so the language evolved differently from hill town to hilltown, from valley to valley.
Think of it this way... It's like someone from Texas saying "y'all" instead of "you all", along with the odd ways they use the expression in conversation. We all have regional differences in American English and though it might be difficult to understand ever word we Americans say to each other at times (remind me to tell you about a country auction in West Virginia I attended once...) we still are speaking the same language. Just think of how French has evolved differently in various parts of the world. The French in La Belle France is the purest, but there are dialects within that country too. The French spoken in Haiti or Quebec or in Cajon-Zydeco country in East Texas and Lousiana are all very different from the French spoken in France simply because they evolved separately from the Mother Tongue. But in the end, in a pinch, all of them could have a basic conversation with each other. High Italian is "the" Italian and but the dialects from various regions are valid too. Each has its place. It makes Italian all the more textured and colorful. I'm glad UNESCO wants the Neapolitan dialect to be preserved, but to declare it as its own language is a stretch. Italy is a mish-mosh of regions--it always was and perhaps always will be. The one outstanding truth I learned from traveling in Italy is... There is no one single "Italy". --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends on your favorite social media! Ciao! An article by Phyllis Macchioni, from her blog, This Italian Life
...You can laugh, but those of us who struggle with a foreign language on a daily basis can well appreciate the obvious difficulties the translator had with the structure of the English language, not to mention the idioms. One of the persistent problems I have with Italian is trying to decipher the sex of things – is it masculine or feminine – something I seem to have trouble doing with some of the people I see on the streets these days too. But unfortunately for me Italian is not androgynous, like some of my fellow citizens.... (Click for more of this great, funny story...)
All photos in the above section Copyright Finzi Photography, 2014 - All Rights Reserved A Few of Italy's Most Beautiful Fountains There are wonderful fountains all over Italy in large cities and small villages. Some are amazing feats of engineering, many contain world class sculptures, while others display the talents of their architects. Some have become day to day hangouts for the locals, to sit, gossip or have a gelato. Others are objects of art that are treasured by the world. Still others are monumental in scale and in legend... Here are a few:
On the grounds of The Royal Palace of Caserta in Caserta, southern Italy, is one of the most magnificent sculptural cascade fountains in all of Europe--La Fontana di Diana. It was palace was constructed for the Bourbon kings of Naples. It was the largest palace and one of the largest buildings erected in Europe during the 18th century.
The Trevi Fountain is a fountain in Rome was designed by Italian architect Nicola Salvi and completed by Pietro Bracci in 1732. Standing 86 ft high and 161 wide, it is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome and perhaps the most famous fountain in the world. Taming of the waters is the theme of the sculptures assembled on the fountain... with Oceanus riding a shell chariot pulled by hippocamps (sea horses). In the niches flanking Oceanus, Abundance spills water from her urn and Salubrity holds a cup from which a snake drinks. Above, bas reliefs illustrate the Roman origin of the aqueducts in which a virgin discovered a new source of water which caused a new aqueduct to be built bringing the water to the spot where Trevi sits today.
The fountain was brought to worldwide attention when the film Three Coins in the Fountain was released in 1954. The story centered on the legend that if you toss a coin into the fountain with your right hand, over your left shoulder, while standing backwards, you will return to Rome someday. Originally, it was said that a thirst quenching glass of water from the Trevi Fountain would ensure good fortune and a fast return to the Eternal City. It gained more romantic popularity in 1960 with Federico Fellini's film, La Dolce Vita when Anita Ekberg and Marcello Mastroianni broke the rules and wet their passions in the fountain. Each night, the Roman Catholic charity Caritas collects the coins from the fountain, donating the cash to charities around the world. They collect well over $3000 a night from the fountain. “Italian” and “style” are synonymous, right? Well, yes, for the most part. But there are some missteps along the way that warrant an advisory. Here’s a look at the ups and downs of Italian-inspired fashion.... (Read more...)
Some think the world is made for fun and frolic, And so do I! And so do I! Some think it well to be all melancholic, To pine and sigh; to pine and sigh; But I, I love to spend my time in singing, Some joyous song, some joyous song, To set the air with music bravely ringing Is far from wrong! Is far from wrong! Harken, harken, music sounds a-far! Harken, harken, with a happy heart! Funiculì, funiculà, funiculì, funiculà! Joy is everywhere, funiculì, funiculà! Ah me! 'tis strange that some should take to sighing, And like it well! And like it well! For me, I have not thought it worth the trying, So cannot tell! So cannot tell! With laugh, with dance and song the day soon passes Full soon is gone, full soon is gone, For mirth was made for joyous lads and lasses To call their own! To call their own! Harken, harken, hark the soft guitar! Harken, harken, hark the soft guitar! Funiculì, funiculà, funiculì, funiculà! Hark the soft guitar, funiculì, funiculà! These are the English words to Funiculì, Funiculà! And here is a video of Rodney Dangerfield's wonderful rendition of the song in the film Easy Money. But the original Neapolitan words are very different: Neapolitan lyrics Aissera, oje Nanniné, me ne sagliette,tu saje addó, tu saje addó Addó 'stu core 'ngrato cchiù dispietto farme nun pò! Farme nun pò! Addó lu fuoco coce, ma se fujete lassa sta! Te lassa sta! E nun te corre appriesso, nun te strujesulo a guardà, sulo a guardà. Jamme, jamme 'ncoppa, jamme jà, Jamme, jamme 'ncoppa, jamme jà, funiculì, funiculà, funiculì, funiculà, 'ncoppa, jamme jà, funiculì, funiculà! Se n'è sagliuta, oje né, se n'è sagliuta,la capa già! La capa già! È gghiuta, po' è turnata, po' è venuta,sta sempe ccà! Sta sempe ccà! La capa vota, vota, attuorno, attuorno,attuorno a tte! Attuorno a tte! Stu core canta sempe nu taluorno: Sposamme, oje né! Sposamme, oje né! English translation I went up this evening, Nanetta Do you know where? Do you know where? Where your hard heart can't reach With scornful wiles! With scornful wiles! Where the fire burns, but if you run You can escape it! You can escape it! It doesn't chase you nor destroy you Just by a look. Just by a look. Come on, come on! To the top we'll go! Come on, come on! To the top we'll go! Funiculi, funicula, funiculi, funicula! To the top we'll go, funiculi, funicula! It's climbed aloft, see, climbed aloft now,Right to the top! Right to the top! It went, and turned, and came back down, And now it's stopped! And now it's stopped! The top is turning round and round, Around yourself! Around yourself! My heart sings that on such a day We should be wed! We should be wed! The Song and Italy's Real World Funiculars The song is about a man caught up in the volcano of love, while he and his love are taking a ride up to the top of Mount Vesuvius on a funicular... an inclined, gear driven rail car. As the funicular rises up, so does his courage to ask for her hand in marriage. There actually was a funicular that went to the top of Vesuvius and this song was written as a metaphor about the ups and downs of love and its volcanic nature. The funicular that went up to Mount Vesuvius in 1880 cable car was later destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 1944. Coincidentally, the song was written in nearby Castellammare di Stabia, itself a town which--while doesn't have a funicular--has a dramatic cable car taking visitors up to the top of a mountain with breathtaking views of both the Bay or Naples and Mount Vesuvius. A Funicular, also known as an inclined plane, is a cable railway system in which a cable attached to a pair of tram-like vehicles moves up and down a steep slope on rails. Since they are connected to cables, in essence both the ascending and descending vehicles function as counterweights to one another. When I was a kid growing up in Hudson County, New Jersey, there were the concrete track remains of a funicular that carried people and horse drawn wagons from the river level in Hoboken up to the Jersey City cliffs. It always fascinated me when I heard stories from my Father about both people and horse-drawn wagons being lifted up the cliff by the cables. The unique thing about funiculars is their cars are built at the same sloping angle as the angled tracks. They are very cock-eyed looking trolleys indeed. Funiculars are still in operation all around Italy and offer visitors to Italy unique views of the countryside, superb visits to the "alto" (high) parts of towns throughout the country. Some are in small towns, some go to the tops of mountains, while others simply are an everyday part of commuting from the low town to the higher: the alto.
So, there you have it... a little tour of Italy's funiculars. Perhaps you will search out a funicular when you travel to Italy and enjoy a ride on one or two. Enjoy the view, but more important, your feet will thank you for finding a way around all those steps in the hill towns of Italy...
--Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please LIKE it and tell your friends about us. Ciao! ...Given Venice’s romantic associations, it is somewhat ironic that the city hasn’t exactly had a history of blossoming true love. The annals of Venice cite domestic disputes of the conjugal kind all over the place – husbands decapitating their cheating wives; fathers killing their daughters for marrying the wrong guy; ghosts cutting off the ring fingers of their very much alive lovers... (more...)
More people would know about--and visit--Treviso if it wasn't for everyone wanting to go to see it's bigger sister, Venice. Treviso lies about 25 miles north-east of Venice with it's own watery world of canals and moats that surround the towns medieval walls and meander throughout, giving it a very different experience than Venice. There are no gondolas here, mainly because the canals here have fast moving water fed from the mountains just to the north. Many think of Treviso as being worthy of just a day trip, but it would serve well for a longer stay as a hub to explore the Veneto and its wonderful towns and cities like Padua, Vicenza, Verona and Mantova. The town has its own treasures and curiosities that any traveler will enjoy, and with waterways at every turn, it gives one a feeling more akin to Amsterdam than Venice. The amazing thing about the town is that it was terribly bombed during World War II but wonderfully restored. I experienced towns like this in France years ago, where the locals loved their history so much that they put back the towns exactly as they stood before, stone by stone. Now that's love. This is a walking or cycling town, with a maze of streets and covered porticoes to walk, shop and dine under--perfect even on rainy days. Walking around the town you'll find fragments of frescoes which used to be on every home but now are preserved as one of the towns treasures of the past. The old defensive walls, portals and moat circle the historic center along with its canals and fiumes, with the River Sile running just to the south of the town center. The canals are wonderful places to walk or cycle, lined with paths, grassy areas, weeping willows, mill wheels and stylish houses. This is a well-off town that doesn't rely on tourism, so you won't find the touristy fare here--no souvenir shops. It has wealth from its famed businesses, like clothing retailer Benetton, Lotto Sport Italia, appliance maker De'Longhi, and bicycle maker Pinarello--among others. But this doesn't mean there is nothing worthy of a traveler to see here... there's a wealth of beauty, restaurants, shops, churches, towers and art. The town's center is certainly the Piazza dei Signori, with its covered arcades. There is something cozy and very Old World about sitting in an outdoor cafe having your espresso or a lunch with a friend under the vaulted protection of an arcade--a great option on a rainy day (in case you are an off season voyager). The Palazzo dei Trecento is Treviso's town hall also sits on the Piazza. Treviso is a great place to just take walks and be surprised by the sudden appearance of yet another canal around the next corner or by the contrast of some world class modern architecture mixed wonderfully into the old matrix of the place. There are many chic bars, cafés, and restaurants to try out the local cuisine and wines. And don't forget, Treviso is the birthplace of that sparkling dream of a wine called Prosecco. Have a glass with some little pastries for me! So, as a hub to explore the Veneto, as a weekend getaway (away from cruise ship throngs) or as an alternative base for making late day sojourns into Venice (when most of the tourists have gone), consider Treviso. With it's own airport and train station, it's easy to get to and enjoy... --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please, please, please, tell your friends about us. Ciao! "Many of us Italians are perplexed by the American tendency to claim Italian heritage, often having to trace back many generations to do so. We are Italians. We never left. You are Italian-Americans at best. It's not the same thing."
I've been more active on Facebook since I started writing this blog... the reason is twofold. First, it is a way I can share our Grand Voyage Italy posts with more people. Secondly, there is a wealth of information on FB pages dedicated to various aspects of Italian life: cooking, travel tips, learning Italian, Italian style and fashions, Italian business news from Italy--you name it. Here are a few of my favorites for exploring Facebook to learn about Italy rather than just using it as a gossip board...
Living in Italy-Travel Experiences https://www.facebook.com/groups/144889008929897/ This FB page is for expats living in Italy. It's a great place to get the real deal on getting by in Italy--shopping, traveling, language, trains, renting cars, suggestions on places to visit or eat. It's a great bunch of people to make friends with. One caution though... be respectful of the fact that many of the people posting are from families on U.S. Government or Military deployment. They are not on vacation--they really do live in Italy, sometimes not by choice. So, as long as you are respectful of this fact, join in on the conversations and ask for advice. ITALIAN RECIPE'S https://www.facebook.com/groups/492589317487758/ This is one of my favorites for incredibly authentic Italian recipes. There are even lots of Italian nationals posting to this page with their Nonna's recipes... what a wealth of heritage here. What can be better than cooking and enjoying the real Italy before you even take a trip there... or to keep eating such authentic recipes even after you've returned home? You know you're Italian when... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1473514092894389/1624349427810854/ This is small but fun group that shares memories of growing up in Italy, recipes, destinations, photos of their hometowns, historic photos and jokes. It seems to be made up mostly of Italians who are living in the U.S. but like to share things about Italy. Lots of fun. Italy Magazine https://www.facebook.com/ItalyMagazine?fref=ts This magazine has a fairly good page with lots of links to articles on various aspects of planning trips to Italy. Lingua Italia https://www.facebook.com/groups/linguaitalia/ Italian For Beginners! Study materials and resources to help you learn Italian. To find the "Beginner Lessons" click the "FILES" section. Very helpful batch of people there. The Godfather https://www.facebook.com/groups/235081736680856/ A page for for Godfather fans... or should I say fanatics. Lots of fun learning the meanings behind some of the smallest details of the Godfather trilogy. My Italy https://www.facebook.com/ItalyMe/timeline This is a popular FB page that links to a young family's blog. Subjects cover all aspects of Italian life, travel, wines and cuisine. Pizza Making https://www.facebook.com/PizzaMaking/timeline Making pizza... that's what this page is about. There are many types of stories, links to recipes and more. Want to know about the history of pizza? Check this page out. L'Italo-Americano Newspaper https://www.facebook.com/lists/914973645191720 The page for America's oldest Italian-American newspaper, a mix of stories from Italy and the Italian American community... history, news, art, recipes and just plain fun stuff. Italian Recipe Box on Yummly https://www.facebook.com/Italian.Recipes.are.Yummly?fref=ts Not exactly authentic Italian recipes, but there are a lot of recipes here. For Italian recipes with a heavy American slant (expecially for busy Moms). Life in Italy https://www.facebook.com/lifeinitaly?fref=nf Life in Italy is exactly that... Italy and Italian Culture. Italian News, Fashion, food and Italian Culture. Italian Language and Lifestyle. Italia.it https://www.facebook.com/italia.it?ref=timeline_chaining This is the "official" Italian travel page on FB, but what I like about it is that every post in in both English and Italian. Spend a little time reading about places to visit and hone your Italian language skills at the same time! Learn Italian with Lucrezia https://www.facebook.com/LearnItalianwithLucrezia/timeline Lucrezia is a sparkly, well spoken Italian young lady who has a very comprehensive FB pag and blog with many videos on all sorts of subjects used in language lessons. It's sometimes difficult to find beginner lessons, but keep scrolling and you'll find a lesson worth doing. By the way, even though she's only 23 years old, Lucrezia speaks English, Spanish and French besides her native Italian. Italy Food https://www.facebook.com/ItalyFoodPage?fref=ts Another great Italian food and recipe page. Links to all sorts of recipes. Very popular. --Jerry Finzi If you enjoyed this post, please LIKE it and tell your friends about us. Grazie. I've already done a post about Palios... the Palio being the winning cloth or colors. The most famous Palio horse races in Siena and Asti. But here's a different take on the Palio horse races in Italy... Alba is a town of 30,000 people that is well known for white truffles and Barolo wine. But why do they have--of all things--a donkey Palio instead of a horse Palio? Well, there is a 100 year old rivalry between old grudge with Asti, a town only 20 miles away. Apparently, in 1932, Alba was not allowed to enter the Palio in Asti, a race held since the 1200s. Ok, we'll get back at them, they thought... and did, by organizing their own donkey races. In Italy, the words ciucio, asino or somaro all mean jackass, donkey... or stupid. In this way they poked great fun at the Asti horse races. In the other races, the horses are wild and muscular and full of speed, while macho men cling to their backs and get close to death or serious injury... it's all very exciting and spectacular. But in Alba the stubborn donkeys run--sometimes--but mostly bump into things, throw their riders, roam around aimlessly, turn in circles, walk backwards or suddenly stop altogether while their riders kick, swear, beg, cry, pull, tug and push in attempts to get them going again. There are actually very strict regulations to protect the donkeys used in the races--all female, by the way (a statement about Italian female stubbornness, perhaps?) They also have microchips embedded and riders are given donkeys randomly by drawing to prevent any advantage over another particularly stubborn beast. Jockeys aren't allowed to do anything that might hurt the donkeys—including whips, spiked shoes and bits—all of which are banned. The animals have veterinarians at the race for a physical exam before the race and after. Judges have keen eyes and will immediately disqualify riders who use sharp objects to poke the donkeys into giving them a burst of speed. Riders can get hurt too with kids but also from the course coats on the donkeys' backs.... most wear padded bike shorts to prevent chafing and cuts. The Donkey's race takes place during the International Fair of the White Truffle of Alba. The city of Alba lies in the heart of Langhe e Roero area in the Piedmont Region, where some of the finest and well-known Italian wines are produced. Besides wine and truffles other specialties are hazelnuts, cheese and chocolate. The city of Alba is divided into nine historical borghi (districts) that compete to seize a painted drape, the so-called Palio, through the donkey race. On the day of the Palio more than 1000 people dressed in colorfull medieval costumes and stroll around the city portraying ladies, knights, peasants and jesters. The riders and donkeys don't get a chance to be familiar with each other because of the random drawing that matches rider to beast. This silly race is three laps long with lots of excitement and fun for all ages. Alba International White Truffle Fair Oct 11 - Nov 15, 2015 Alba, Italy The donkey race is held on the first Sunday in October of the festival. --Jerry Finzi If you liked this post, please share it with your friends and LIKE it... grazie. |
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